1 (1-lb) seedless cucumber (usually plastic-wrapped), cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 to 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup whole-milk plain yogurt

Toss cucumber with salt in a colander in sink and let drain 30 minutes, then pat dry.

Toast cumin seeds in a dry small heavy skillet over low heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant and a shade darker, 3 to 4 minutes. Cool on a cutting board, then crush slightly with a rolling pin.

Stir cucumber, cumin, and cilantro into yogurt in a bowl.

Makes 4 side-dish servings.